The city of Ancona isn’t just for passing through. The capital of the Marche region is a fixed point poised between horizons. 

On one side the sea, on the other the Marche Apennines, and in between a shy and gentle spirit that cautiously reveals itself. Ancona is like those aromas from the kitchen that you only notice when you explore new cities at a slow pace.

There’s no need to rush about here. Just turn off, perhaps into one of those alleyways that climb from the centre towards the Cathedral of San Ciriaco, where the city seems suspended on the Guasco promontory, with the breeze carrying the scent of salt and pine trees.

Ancona’s old town retains the lived-in elegance of port cities: a Roman amphitheatre, a Gothic merchants’ loggia, buildings that subtly reveal their history, and the port that represents the city’s authentic soul. Here, life moves slowly and skilfully, with a constant coming and going of fishing boats, international ferries and sailors.

Our favourite spot is Passetto, a panoramic beach accessed via a monumental staircase that leads down to dozens of caves carved into the rock by the fisherfolk of yesteryear. Today, it’s often a refuge for those seeking a bit of peace and quiet or perhaps an off-season dip.

Conero: where the Adriatic changes colour

About half an hour’s drive from Ancona along the coast, Monte Conero awaits you. With its white cliffs and paths scented with broom, it’s a true natural paradise. Here, the Adriatic Sea loses its calm and becomes wild, turquoise, almost Balkan.

The beaches of elegant Sirolo or authentic Numana can be reached on foot, by bike or by environmentally-friendly shuttle buses. There are no concessions to frenetic tourism: everything moves at a leisurely Mediterranean pace. You can walk, breathe and eat well. Sample typical products such as moscioli (mussels), vincisgrassi (a baked pasta dish) and ciauscolo (salume sausage).

The Frasassi Caves: a world beneath our feet

Head inland for an hour and the landscape changes again. You enter the Gola della Rossa e di Frasassi Natural Park, where the mountain literally opens up to reveal one of the most amazing natural spectacles in Europe: the Frasassi caves.

Stalactites and stalagmites form a parallel geography, made up of immense salt formations, concretions that resemble Baroque sculptures, underground lakes and soft lighting. Walking along and listening, you feel as if you’ve entered a geological era, where everything is still yet in constant transformation. For those who want to go further, there’s also a caving route you can do with an expert guide, wearing a helmet and oversuit.

A city to go back to

Ancona and its surrounds don’t reveal themselves immediately. They need time, respect and a certain attention to detail. But they know how to reward those who are not in a hurry. This is a lesser-known Italy, where quality is still a daily choice and the landscape plays a part in the story. Travelling here is a bit like reading an old-fashioned book: it may not have a shiny cover, but it stays with you for a long time.